Varanasi Ghats (warning! Maybe upsetting to some)

We are as rested as we can be when there's constant chiming and chanting through the night. Security guards radios crackling, cows chasing dogs, dogs chasing cows and monkeys bashing on rooftops. We head out for breakkie.

This cow seems to have special treatment, a platform and a shade!

Back to Varanasi Cafe and Bakery just around the corner for homemade bread, papaya jam, eggs and pancakes.

And then we stroll round the corner and there it is, the magnificent Ganges.

Another overwhelming moment. It's so glorious, I'm actually quite emotional.

There are Ghats up and down the river. These are steps and platforms where different activities take place. Worshipping, bathing, washing and of course the famous Hindu cremations.

The smoke in the distance beyond the pink tower is where the cremation ceremonies happen, all day everyday the fires burn.

We wander a little closer and then get sucked in by some scammers.

A man with very good English tells us where we can and can't go and starts to explain a little about the ceremonies. An old guy then appears who is a volunteer at the hospice building just behind and who helps prepare the bodies. He offers to tell us all about the rituals. 

It is only the bodies of men and women who are cremated. Pregnant women, children, holy men, those with cobra bites and lepers are wrapped, weighed down and thrown into the water from boats. 

Being cremated here means to escape the cycle of reincarnation. To bathe in the Ganges is said to wash away all sins. 

We listen intently to the guy and then comes the request for money so that a poor family can buy the wood for their dying relative. 800 rupee's, just under £10 buys the wood needed for the pyre. We are hassled, told to think of a family, basically guilt tripped into parting with some cash. It's not til we get back to our room that I read about the scam, pretty much everything that happened to us is detailed by heaps of people. It's likely the morning by will be used for drugs or similar. 

Moving on, we head to our fave cafe for our cooking lessons with Sampta and her daughter. We are taught to make Shahi Paneer in their home kitchen. They are so welcoming,we even catch abit of cricket with them.

Freddy gets stuck in.

And Elliot.

It's delicious! We come away with some homemade spice blends too so we can recreate the dish.

Next up we take an evening boat trip on the river.

The Burning Ghat. Bodies wrapped in orange on the steps.  We watch a group of people in the water sifting through the ashes. They are collecting any gold that was left on the bodies. Bones are thrown into the water and we hear stories of relatives of poor families who cannot afford the wood being half burned and then thrown in.

A game of cricket is being played on this ghat and we also just missed a kids swimming competition.

As we make are way to the other side of the river it's like there's a party going on. It's Sunday and families have come to the sandy banks of the river to relax and swim. We see at least one body on the banks near the revellers.

As the sun starts to set we head back across the river towards Dashaswamedh Ghat where a nightly Aarti fire ritual takes place.

Freddy takes control.

El has a shot too.

Hundreds of people fill the steps and more arrive on crowded rowing and motor boats to watch.

Five men dressed in red, orange and gold perform different rituals,with music, singing and fire.

The atmosphere is amazing. It's so hot,vwe leave the boat soaked in sweat and head for our air conditioned room our heads reeling with all we have seen today.